galilee (3) - on the lake

Sunrise over Galilee

Sunday 7th December. Another early start with a Eucharist by the lakeside celebrated by Brother David. The lake was perfectly calm with very little breeze and the natural sounds and atmosphere were very conducive to worship and reflection. Then we headed up a hillside to the church on the Mount of the Beatitudes which afforded some great views of the area. Our time there included a reflection on ‘Blessed are the Peacemakers’ by Brother Robert. There is a bit of an in joke going on because a few days ago we learnt that one of the valleys around Jerusalem is known as the Valley of the Cheesemakers. The brothers and I thought this highly amusing given the mishearing of Jesus’ words in Monty Python’s Life of Brian (let the reader understand).

Pan's grotto and the Banais source of the Jordan.

Next stop was Caesarea Philippi up in the far north next to the Lebanese and Syrian borders. The scenery is very dramatic with a narrow valley hemmed in by the Lebanese mountains and the Golan Heights. As we neared what was Caesarea Philippi there were warning signs all around because the borders had been laid with mine fields, another clear reminder of the tensions in the area. The site attributed to Peter’s Confession that Jesus is the Christ (Mark 8:29) is a place littered with the remains of pagan temples, including Pan’s grotto, and it is also where Herod’s son Philip rebuilt the city and changed the name from Paneas to Caesarea in honour of Augustus Caesar. One could visualise the impact of Peter’s declaration against the backdrop of such a place of pagan worship and political power.

The other point about this place is that it is one of the three sources of the river Jordan and so it was a very appropriate spot to renew our Baptismal Promises as Brother David sprinkled us with water from the Jordan. We then had some time to fill up our own water bottles with water from the river. It has to be said that the Jordan river is not what it was and the source was also looking rather stressed; a trickle rather than a gushing stream.

Casting the net on Galilee.

Then back on the coach and a return to Galilee for lunch of St Peter’s fish by the lakeside at Tiberius. There was a rumour that the chef sometimes puts a gold coin in one of the fish’s mouths but it didn’t happen at our tables. The highlight of the afternoon, however, was a boat ride on the lake. The water was still very calm and we had the rather strange experience of listening to a reflection on the water as a place of chaos in the gospels on what was more or less a glassy sea. One of the boatmen gave us a demonstration of the traditional way of catching fish but nothing was caught, even after he tried the other side of the boat. The boat took us across from Tiberius to a shore side museum which houses a C1st A.D. fishing boat that was discovered some eighteen years ago. This was Galilee’s very own Mary Rose and the archaeologists had their work cut out to preserve the boat. The museum now houses the boat in a purpose built section and it gives a fascinating insight into the sort of vessels Peter and his chums would have used on the lake.

This is not a Hitchcock movie.

We rounded off the day with dinner, Compline and shared reflections on our experiences before heading to the bar for a relaxing drink looking our across the lake and the lights of Tiberius.

The Glassy Sea.

Shalom.

galilee (2) - nazareth

Renewal of wedding vows in Cana

Saturday 6th December. Another early start to depart for Nazareth with a stop of at Cana for a look at the wedding church. This turned into a bit of a surprise as the nun at the church asked if couples would like to renew their wedding vows. All four couples in our party, including Stephen the Dean of St. George’s and his wife Jill, decided to take advantage of the opportunity and at short notice Brother David officiated. I confess to great worry about the service when a tape of dodgy wedding music started up but any possibility of a Las Vegas experience was avoided and it was actually a very moving ceremony conducted with great sensitivity. Needless to say no water was turned to wine but it was a joyous occasion and was followed by a reflection from Stephen and a midrash on the wedding at Cana from Mary’s viewpoint presented by Jill.

There isn’t much else to see in Cana and the church was not particularly interesting so it was back on the coach and off to Nazareth.There is much debate amongst scholars as to the size of Nazareth at the time of Christ and we reflected on this as we journeyed to the town. I say town but it is now a sprawling city ranging across the hillsides and with a plush new section known as Nazareth Illit. Very different from the poverty of Bethlehem with lots of BMWs and Mercs driven by members of the various communities. To help get a feel of Nazareth around the Second Temple period we visited the Nazareth Village, a reconstruction of what the place may have looked like based on archaeological research and finds in the area. I thought it was quite effective and we finished the visit with a reading and discussion based on Luke 4:16-30, followed by a simple but very enjoyable lunch prepared at the village.

The next part of the visit I found more problematic as we headed for the site of the Annunciation to Mary. I should say sites because the Orthodox site focuses on a well inside the church of St. Gabriel’s which is adorned with rich frescos. The Catholic site is further up the hill at what is believed to be Mary’s house and this is now a huge construction called the Basilica of the Annunciation. Inside on the lower level at the heart of the church is what is said to be Mary’s house. When we arrived there was a mass taking place with wonderful singing from the pilgrim group already inside. However, this did not take away from what I considered to be one of the most hideous churches in Christendom. The church is on several levels with huge concrete supporting structures, grey and stained (these were to be covered in tiles but they ran out of money). The colour of the depictions of Mary from different parts of the world on the church walls could not hide the ugliness of the place. I am led to believe that Barluzzi had designed a church for this site but the commission was given to someone else. What a disaster and as one of the Brothers commented in his usual understated way ‘this is not a success’. The place reminded me of a Bond villain’s lair and I half expected to see Donald Pleasance sitting in a corner stroking a white cat! Next to the Basilica was another church over the site of excavations which tradition speculates could have been Joseph’s house.

Arabic mass outside Mary's House in the Basilica of the Annunciation

Just when I felt Nazareth was turning into something of a disappointment a real jewel appeared. We had the privilege of visiting the Sisters of Nazareth, a small French order of nuns who had bought a field in Nazareth to build their convent in order to develop work amongst the young girls of the area. During work on their buildings a Crusader church and burial site was discovered and further investigation led to the uncovering of what is believed to be a C1st A.D. house. Given that there were probably only forty houses in the town at that time it is not unreasonable to assume that Jesus and his family would have visited the house during their time in the area. As if that wasn’t enough a couple of the nuns then discovered a deeper vault in the site and this turned out to be a chapel with the smell of incense still in the air when the sealed room was opened. But that is not all, off this room another area was opened up to reveal a burial tomb, complete with a rolling stone and the place for two bodies. The sisters have never opened up this site for commercial purposes, though they could have made a fortune either marketing or selling the finds. Instead, they grant viewing to those with a real interest in these matters and it was a very real honour to be allowed to view the site.

C1st AD tomb under Sisters of Nazareth convent.

Now as I reflect on the visit to Nazareth it occurs to me that it is often the least ostentatious places and people that contain the real treasures of this land. I can’t get out of my mind the image of two nuns descending on rope into a darkened vault to discover such remarkable finds from antiquity. What a joy to meet the Sisters of Nazareth and to see the remarkable place they so faithfully and humbly steward. Indiana Jones eat your heart out for here is the real deal!
Shalom.

galilee (1) - lakeside

Caesarea Maritima

Friday 5th December. Early start this morning as we headed north from Jerusalem to Galilee by way of a detour to the coast. The reason for this particular route was to give us the opportunity to visit the excavations at Caesarea Maritima. The site focuses on the palace of Herod the Great which he built out into the sea and the layout of the area is quite impressive; including a theatre, hippodrome and the Crusader battlements and chapel from the later period. There is a collection of artefacts from the first century including a large stone with Pilate’s name carved on it. Pilate used this area as his base and only went to Jerusalem on occasional administrative business or when there was a spot of bother to be sorted out on behalf of the empire. We recite Pilate’s name week by week in the Creed and it was interesting to connect that name with an artefact from antiquity – another example of grounding Christian tradition in historical fact and another reminder of the reality of the incarnation as an event in place and time. The other feature of the area was the exclusive golf course which we passed; I hate to think of the membership fees given the cost of watering the greens etc. and, much as I enjoy golf, I can’t help but wonder if this isn’t a modern day Herodian folly?

Capernaum with Church over Peter's House.

Driving across to Galilee I began to get a good feel for the terrain of the area, small forest areas (many with planted fir trees) and cultivated fields giving way to stony hillsides and wide valley planes. Then the descent to the Sea of Galilee and my first encounter with the area where Jesus focused much of his public ministry. We are staying in a German pilgrim’s house called Pilgerhaus, Tabgha down on the sea shore and it is a glorious setting. Bit of a blur in the afternoon as we visited several sites before settling in to our accommodation for the night. First up Capernaum and the excavations including what is claimed to be Peter’s house. Very interesting church over the site of the house – looked a bit like a space ship and many course members were not impressed but I thought it worked as a building; light and spacious with a glass central flooring area enabling one to view the excavations underneath and a good way to preserve the site. We spent some time reflecting on our understanding of synagogue in C1st A.D. in the shade under the olive trees next to what is claimed to be the site of the Capernaum synagogue.

On to two more churches. The first the Church of the Multiplication commemorating the miracle of the loaves and fishes. I think my children will be interested to know there is a church dedicated to multiplication, my maths was so bad that I was often compelled to turn to prayer. The highlight of the day was a Eucharist by the sea shore in the grounds next to the church. Led by Brother David the service brought me back to the question of the distinctions between tourist and pilgrim and I found it very moving to break bread and share wine with my companions as the sun set behind the hills. Finally a visit to St. Peter’s Primacy another church by the sea shore next to where we are staying. To be quite honest I’d had enough of churches by this point and just wanted a shower, good meal and a chance to soak in the atmosphere of the area with a cold beer in my hand. Tourist or pilgrim – well I think both at this point because I felt the rush of visiting all these places in a short space of time left me with a thirst for space to reflect and pray, which probably explains why I appreciated the shore side holy communion. The beer was also most excellent.
Shalom.

View across the Sea of Galilee to Tiberius at sunset.