holy land reflections (1) - layers

Excavations at southern wall of Temple Mount

In the film Shrek there is a scene where Shrek, the ogre, and his faithful sidekick Donkey are discussing Shrek’s personality. Shrek explains that he is more complex than might at first appear, he has layers. One of the most striking features of the Holy Land and in particular Jerusalem is that it is a place of many layers. These layers are most obviously visible in the archaeological excavations where one can see the stratification laid bare. A good example of this layering is the dig at Jericho where in the first part of the C20th various archaeologists, most notably Garstang and then Kenyon, investigated the city walls and explored the relationship between the finds and the Biblical record. I commented on the site at Jericho on a previous post and there is a good summary of the site here.

Excavation at Jericho revealing stratification and base of a watch tower.

Another sense of layering can be seen at the religious sites which over time have been regarded as holy by various faiths. At these sites one can see different holy places built one upon another. In some cases as one faith replaced another so religious buildings were destroyed and the rubble used in the construction of another holy place on top. The best example of this I saw was at the Temple Mount where excavations have now revealed the street level of the Second Temple (538 B.C. – 70 A.D.) and Roman (70 - 325 A.D.) periods. At this site are also remains from the Byzantine (325 – 634 A.D.), Umayyad (660 – 1073 A.D.), Crusader (1099 – 1187 A.D.), Ayyubid (1187 – 1229 A.D.), Mamluk (1250 – 1516 A.D.) and Ottoman (1516 – 1917 A.D.) periods. Another example is at the Cenacle, traditionally considered the site of the Upper Room where the Last Supper was celebrated. This site is now the remains of a Crusader church which became a mosque and then synagogue. It is an important site for Jews as it is considered to be the site of the Tomb of David.

As a result of this layering of holy places a great amount of sensitivity and restraint needs to be exercised by the various communities. I was particularly impressed at the church of Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant in Abu-Ghosh to see the way in which the church was modestly decorated out of respect to Judaism. Judaism regards it as an important religious site; Abinadab’s house where the Ark resided for twenty years before David moved it to Jerusalem. This sensitivity has not always been evident and on occasions the consequences have been explosive. One of the most infamous examples was Ariel Sharon’s visit to the Dome of the Rock as part of an election campaign in September 2000; the consequences were a battle between Palestinians and the Israeli security forces. Inevitably there are conflicting accounts of this incident and the motives of those caught up in it but it serves to highlight the way in which a site, regarded as central to Judaism and Islam and as special to Christians, carries many layers of history and significance.

My personal impression of the situation is that each of the religious communities is on the whole sensitive to the others and seeks to live with an uneasy accommodation. Where else in the world can one see so many sites of religious significance literally on top of each other? One of the most amusing stories I heard was that when the Crusaders conquered Jerusalem they thought the Dome of the Rock was actually Herod’s Temple and so didn’t destroy it but placed an altar there and converted it into a church! Had they realised it was a mosque it probably would have been reduced to rubble nearly a millennium ago.

Chapel of the Finding of the Cross: Church of the Resurrection.

A third type of layering is evident at Christian sites where over time different churches have been constructed, reflecting successive periods of the Holy Land’s Christian past. At the Pool of Bethesda the excavations reveal evidence of a large Byzantine church and then a Crusader church built on its foundations. However, the best example is the Church of the Resurrection constructed on the traditional site of Golgotha and the Tomb of Jesus. The site, a quarry outside the city walls, was initially covered as part of Hadrian’s reconstruction of Jerusalem and the Temple of Venus was built there. Following his conversion, Constantine ordered the clearing of the area and the construction of a church, though his mother Helena gets the credit for the work. Three interconnecting churches were built and completed towards the end of C4th.

The church was damaged and rebuilt in C7th and was a protected Christian site under Moslem rule until C10th when it was badly damaged by fire during a riot and then in 1009 A.D. its destruction was ordered by Al-Hakim. All that was left were those parts of the building that could not be easily destroyed or removed. An expensive rebuilding project took place in the C11th and was completed in 1048 A.D. by Constantine IX. It comprised a large open court with five small chapels and the original basilica remained in ruins. In the mid C12th the Crusaders began to refurbish the church site and brought it together under one roof. Franciscan Friars renovated the church in C16th but it was badly damaged in another fire at the beginning of C19th. Further renovations have taken place since then and include the restoration of the dome in the mid 1990’s. As I have mentioned in a previous post, some of the church, including the Edicule, are desperately in need of restoration but it seems that the controlling denominations can’t agree on what to do.

Cultic shrines at Caesarea Philippi.

There is one more sense of layering that I was aware of during my time in the Holy Land. It was a real privilege to read the scriptures while visiting sites traditionally associated with those passages. The geography and history of these places gave me a fresh appreciation for, and understanding of, the text. Whether it was standing on the shore at Galilee, looking at the cultic shrines at Caesarea Philippi, walking on the Street of the Cheesemakers beside the Temple Mount, looking across at the Old City from the Mount of Olives or sitting quietly under an olive tree in Capernaum, it was as if I began to experience passages of scripture in 3D. Moving about these places grounded my reading of the Bible and at times challenged the images I had previously formed in my mind; it helped me to discover new layers in very familiar stories and incidents.

One of the tasks pursued by Biblical scholars for many decades has been the attempt to strip back the layers of the Bible to get to the real or historical Jesus and to uncover the writers and communities behind the scriptures. Personally, the rich experiences of visiting the Holy Land and reading the Bible while there have underlined the need to accept, appreciate and enjoy the many layers of the land, the places, the traditions and the Bible; to embrace the complexity and diversity and to dig deep rather than be content with the superficial.

jerusalem (9) - healing

The Street of the Cheesemakers: where Jesus walked?

Thursday 11th December. Back into full swing this morning but things didn’t go according to plan. We headed off early to visit Al-Haram Ash-Sharif (Temple Mount) only to find that the Moslem religious leaders had extended the celebrations which were due to have ended on Wednesday to Sunday. This meant the site was closed to non-Moslems so we couldn’t go in. Stage two of the plan had been to visit the temple southern wall excavations so we went straight there and had an absorbing time looking at all that has been uncovered and what it reveals particularly about the Second Temple. Two particular areas drew my attention. The first a C1st A.D. street beside the temple under what is now known as the Robinson Arch. The street is called the Street of the Cheesemakers (let the reader understand again) and was lined with traders’ shops where goods including food and temple sacrifices were sold. The area is also surrounded by Mikvah’ot for purification before worship. The other area is the southern steps leading up to the temple, which I mentioned in a previous post. We sat on these steps and listened to John 2:13-22, the cleansing of the temple, and then reflected on its significance for Jesus' life and mission.

Southern steps to Second Temple.

On to the Western/Wailing wall which I posted about previously. As before there was a lot of activity with Bar Mitzvah ceremonies and musicians playing drums and blowing shawms (rams horns).

Wailing at the Wailing Wall

Our change of plan was to leave by the Dung gate and head for St Peter en Gallicantu, the church where the Denial of Peter is commemorated and is also believed to be the residence of the temple High Priest Caiaphas. The church affords stunning views of the old city and across to the Mount of Olives and down the valley towards the Dead Sea. A very welcome cup of coffee was followed by one of the most evocative times of prayer and reflection. The church was restored in the 1990’s and the décor inside is a series of beautiful mosaics, the designs are breathtaking and expertly executed. We sat in the body of the church singing Taize chants and then another group of pilgrims entered. They read Peter’s Denial Matthew 26:69-75 in Spanish and then one of our party read it in English. After a time of silence we moved to the area underneath the church which includes the dungeon where Jesus is believed to have been held overnight before his crucifixion. It’s basically a deep pit into which prisoners were lowered by rope. We stood in the cell listening to Psalm 88, imagining the darkness and the fear.

Mosaics in St Peter en Gallicantu.

Outside the church are extensive excavations which have led to the conclusion that this was the high priest’s house and next to it are a set of steep steps which it is thought Jesus would have descended to go to Gethsemane and then ascended as he was brought before the Chief Priest.

Pool of Bethesda.

Back into the old city and lunch at a Lutheran Hospice. As usual the food was excellent and was rounded off with a slice of panettone and coffee. Then across the old city to The Pool of Bethesda which is a remarkable archaeological site. We sat in the church for another powerful meditation by Brother Robert on healing following the reading of John 5:2-16. Do we really want to be healed? The church has interesting acoustics, effectively a reverb chamber, and it is not easy to hear someone speak but the singing sounds out of this world. The excavations go right down to the pools at the time of Jesus, with remains of a Byzantine basilica and then Crusader church on top. One comment to make about Biblical archaeology at this point. Back at the Second Temple site Kathleen Kenyon, who I mentioned in relation to Jericho, identified a wall as being second temple when in fact it was later. At Bethesda scholars were very sceptical that there was a pool and so were astounded when one was actually found. It just goes to show that the archaeologists and their assumptions are not necessarily right. At the same time we should thank God for their gifts and skills which have helped to reveal so much about sites in the Holy Land.

Separation Barrier on outskirts of Jerusalem.

It has been a long day and in the evening we had a lecture on Christians in the Holy Land. It was an introduction to the history, plethora of denominations and the issues faced by indigenous Christians today. Christians now number about one percent of the population and many of them live in areas that are cut off by the wall, or separation barrier as many Israeli’s would call it. Basically, many Christians are prevented from attending their churches, amongst many other things, because of the limitations on travel imposed as part of the security measures. It is easy to forget, when thinking about the situation in this part of the world, that a majority of the Christians are Palestinian Arabs living in areas including the West Bank.

Shalom.

galilee (4) - highs and lows

Barluzzi's Church of the Transfiguration

Monday 8th December. After three enlightening and informative days in Galilee it was time to head back south. There was for a time much speculation that the Transfiguration of Jesus took place on top of Mt. Hermon because of its proximity to Caesarea Philippi, however, tradition finally located the site at Mt. Tabor and this was our first stop of the day. Up the mountain by taxi to another Barluzzi church. Again we were fortunate to be the only people there at that time of day so were able to spend time praying and reflecting on Christ’s transfiguration in the church undisturbed. The design of the church reflects Barluzzi’s knowledge of the scriptures and grasp of theology and it made me wonder what his church of the annunciation would have looked like. As you enter the church there are chapels to left and right and in each a fresco of Moses and Elijah. The focus, however, is on the sanctuary and this is capped by a representation of the transfigured Christ. Our guide claimed that on the 6th August each year (feast of the transfiguration) at 9am the sunlight strikes the figure of Christ and transforms it, such was Barluzzi’s skill and attention to detail. Unfortunately this was the first day of overcast weather and so the views from Mt. Tabor were not very clear.

The Mt. of Temptation outside Jericho.

Next stop was Jericho over two hours away. We drove down the Jordan valley with its plantations of date trees and other crops and then the scenery dramatically changed as we again neared the West Bank. This was desert land, with little growing in it and a harsh climate reflected in the living conditions of the small communities and dwellings near the roadsides; many are little more than tin shacks. And then in the middle of this desert is the oasis of Jericho, with its many springs gushing water and plants and trees blossoming. The town is 10,000 years old, some 396 metres below sea level and overlooked by the Mt. of Temptation. You can take a cable car to the top of the mountain where there is a monastery (these days with only one monk!) but we weren’t tempted and instead spent some time at the archaeological dig near the bottom of the mountain. This site is very important in terms of Biblical archaeology because it was here that Kathleen Kenyon after extensive excavation in the 50’s concluded that there was no evidence for the walls of Jericho at the time of the conquest, though there is a 5,000 year old watchtower. This research had a major impact on the way Biblical archaeology has been conducted since and introduced a much more sceptical approach. It also highlighted the way that archaeology is itself not an exact science, with its own set of religious and political presuppositions affecting funding and influencing the interpretations of stones, remnants of artefacts and other tells.

Mt of Temptation from Jericho.

After a refreshing lunch and cup of coffee we headed back to Jerusalem and St. George’s College. The desert terrain continues to the outskirts of Jerusalem, with occasional Bedouin camps scattered amongst the hills and valleys. The poverty of these places is quite shocking as this once nomadic people are prevented from moving around the region by the political situation. From this approach to Jerusalem one passes a check point and then goes through a tunnel, emerging with a fantastic view of the old city to the left.

Bedouin homes on the road from Jericho to Jerusalem.

The day was rather exhausting with lots of travelling. The contrast between the mountain top experience of Mt. Tabor and the glimpses of the hostile environment around Jericho; ecologically, economically and politically brought me down to earth. I was grateful for a relaxed evening with the chance to have a drink, something to eat and to phone home for a chat with the family. Tomorrow we head out on the Jericho road for a visit to Massada, a float on the Dead Sea and a look round Qumran.
Shalom.